Through the editor’s eyes: Pitti 95

We’ve just returned to Stockholm after another week of biannual menswear festivities in Florence. Pitti Uomo is something that should be experienced rather than read about, but I’ll give the written summary of the latest iteration a stab.

The author (in the blue suit at the left) arriving at Fortezza da Basso on the first day of Pitti Uomo 95. Photo: Szymon Brzóska.

The first thing that strikes me upon arriving at the the scene of the fair, Fortezza da Basso, is how toned down the visitors dress this year. This has been coming for a couple of years, but it seems like Pitti Immagine’s (the organization that hosts Pitti Uomo) plan of covering the famed “Pitti wall” with a lounge area may have deterred a lot of the peacockery, that for a while was synonymous with the fair. 

Some peacocks will always remain. It wouldn’t quite be the same without them. Photo: Szymon Brzóska.

Some flamboyant dandies are still doing their laps outside of the main pavilion, which has always been the central stage for the more outlandish Pitti visitors. But their ranks are thinning and the more classic and toned down casual outfits dominate (either that, or I have subconsciously learned to block out the most disparate colours and pattern combos). 

Some trends that are still going strong are corduroy, belted waists, suede, earthy colours, raglan coats and turtlenecks worn with suits or sport coats. Another interesting sighting is the ever more popular cowboy/mid western style, with Aztec blanket patterns, jeans, big buffalo plaids and even cowboy hats. 

Aladdin Faily and Elin Berntson, sporting cowboy getups. Photo: Szymon Brzóska.
Earthy tones, belted waist and suede. Photo: Szymon Brzóska.

The exhibitors reflected a lot of what could be seen outside the booths, the Valstar stand was well visited, much due to their classic suede flight jackets and their new trench coats, same thing for Woolrich, who’s classic buffalo plaids were seen everywhere this fair. 

Buffalo checks, worn by Naoki Ishibashi (on the right) of Centotrenta. Photo: Szymon Brzóska.

In conclusion, the fair is alive and well, with a renewed energy – perhaps after being released from under the weight of becoming a peacock parade rather than the trade fair it actually is. The business seemed to be bustling, judging by the exhibitors I talked to, and the visitors looked better than ever. 

Erica Ström and the author, Erik Mannby, sporting mustard corduroy and raglan coat, respectively. Photo: Szymon Brzóska.

Suggestions for a casual smart Pitti look

Private White V.C. Twin track jacket 7100 SEK
Valstar suede flight jacket 10.250 SEK

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